the great bali escape: may ’09: day three: ubud and the famous ibu oka babi guling

Ubud, Bali - terraced rice paddy 01 After our mountain trekking adventure, our tour guide Yande took us to Ubud because we told him that we wanted to try ze fehmes babi guling. It was mostly FA and I dozing off in his car because we were too tired. After a while (maybe an hour or so) he made a pit stop so we could see the terraced rice paddy in Bali. I remember learning about this in geography lessons from way back when — the differences between padi bukit and padi sawah. Of course I can’t recall any details now. The rice paddy fields were lovely to see. Apparently a popular spot for wedding photographs. Lots of peddlers around hoping that you’d buy their wares. Then again they are everywhere in Bali, so just say no to them lah.

We got to the famous babi guling stall, Ibu Oka in good time. There were already many people – locals and tourists alike waiting in line for their food, but we had no problems getting seats. According to Yande, Ibu Oka is so famous and popular that they have a 2nd branch about 2km away from this original stall.

Ubud, Bali - signboard of babi guling Ibu Oka Ubud, Bali - Ibu Oka menu and prices

The menu was pretty straightforward — either babi guling or nothing. We ordered a ‘nasi babi guling special’ (special suckling pig) priced at Rp25,000 (RM8.60) each, and a ‘kulit babi guling’ (suckling pig skin), Rp30,000 (RM10.30) to share. Food didn’t take long to arrive.

Ubud, Bali - Ibu Oka babi guling special rice Ubud, Bali - Ibu Oka babi guling, skin only

What did I think? Har… okay lor. Maybe I’d expected too much? The meat was tender but the skin was a bit too tough. The deep-fried intestines was nice. Neither of us dared to eat the black thing so we have no idea what it was. I suppose it’s a must-try, I don’t regret it but I don’t think I’d go back again 😛 Sorry to those who love it. I thought our local suckling pigs are better, heh. Don’t stone me.

We were halfway through our lunch when the proprietress brought out a roasted piggy straight from the pit. Would you like to say hi to your food?

Ubud, Bali - say hi to your food

After lunch, we walked to the Ubud market nearby. I bought a sarong — the bargaining process was too ridiculous that it was freaking funny. By the way FA did most of the bargaining because I pretty much suck at it.

“How much is this?”
“Rp280,000 (RM95.40)… but can lower..”
“Wahhh so expensive! Don’t want lah like that.”
“Then how much you want? You say!”
“Rp20,000 (RM6.90).”
“Oh cannot cannot… Rp200,000 (RM68.20).”

Etc etc etc, in the end I paid Rp90,000 (RM30.70). Not bad for something I’d use only about two or three times in my lifetime.

Once we got back to our hostel in Kuta, we showered and slept till evening. Decided to have our dinner nearby, so we asked the hostel receptionist for recommendations. He said to go to Bamboo Cafe just down the street. We did and randomly ordered.

Kuta, Bali - dinner at Bamboo Cafe in Poppies Lane I
Food at Bamboo Cafe, Poppies Lane

The clams you see in the collage above is what they call ‘oysters’. I liked it especially with the caramelised onions, but FA didn’t like it. My fried rice was rather awesome, FA didn’t really like her rice dish. I ordered a seafood basket to share, which I’d regret because you should never let me do the ordering. The seafood was rather fresh though, and nice. The best bit was the crab. Small but most juicy and succulent!

All that and a big bottle of Bintang beer cost us Rp120,000 (RM41). Not bad. After dinner, I popped over to the nearby Internet cafe because Internet withdrawal is not fun. Then decided to have a Balinese foot massage a few shops down the street. Rp50,000 (RM17.xx) per person for an hour. Felt pretty good after that.

Kuta, Bali - getting a massage in Poppies Lane I Kuta, Bali - Suanie and Fireangel chilling out in hotel

Went back to hostel, bought a couple big bottles of Bintang for Rp18,000 (RM6.20) each, sat by the pool with feet in the water, listened to random songs off my Nokia 5800 Xpress Music, tried to avoid getting soaked or pushed into pool by Perth dudes staying next door, chatted till late under Kuta’s starless sky. For that night anyway.

*Complete Flickr set of Bali, May 2009 here, including photos not published on blog.

the great bali escape: may ’09: day two: legian beach, kuta streets, sunset @ ku de ta

Legian Beach, Bali - Suanie and Fireangel Woke up, had breakfast at Masa Inn then walked towards Legian Street. Sure looks different in daytime. Walked past endless shops and pubs, lots of traffic = noise + air pollution, lots of touters. I think being Asians has its advantages — some of the touters don’t even bother greeting us or look at us.

After an hour, we headed for the beach. Walked from Legian to Kuta beach, slippers off, feet in the soft sand and waves. Lots of people sunbathing, surfer dudes and chicks around, some of them not very good at surfing, heh. It was lovely except that I didn’t put on any sunblock, something I’d regret later.

Legian Beach, Bali - deck chairs for a price Legian Beach, Bali - people

Walked all the way back to Kuta, went past Hard Rock Hotel etc, saw a Starbucks next to the Hard Rock shop. Of course must go in!

Kuta, Bali - Suanie found Starbucks

SMS-ed some friends, “Am at Starbucks, Kuta. Heheh.” They replied:
ShaolinTiger: Lol so typical. Coffee there nicer or not?
KY: Haha I hope you are not bored of FA? Have lots of fun and remember to eat pork!
Horng: You are so sick, Suan. Need to go to Starbucks rehabilitation centre if there is any.
Gier: Am sure you’re bored and unhepi and would rather be in PJ at your desk, working and bringing me my Pepsi Max. Well, padan muka! I have no kesian for you. Bitch.

After an iced tea, a sandwich and a hand-drawn map of Kuta by the barista, we went on our way to Kuta Square, more random stalls and back to Legian Street. While FA was buying some chopsticks thingy that she ties her hair with, I was very entertained by a little kid sitting at the steps of the stall next door. Basically made him jump and wiggle and constantly shake his head and all that stuff you do with kids.

Kuta, Bali - cute kid

Ah Seng greatly recommended Ku De Ta to catch some beers and the sunset, so we thought we’d walk to the place. Problem is, we underestimated the distance. We were at the beginning of Legian Street and Ku De Ta is in Seminyak. After a couple of hours, we decided to ask for directions. The shopkeeper said that it was too far away and we must take a taxi there. So we did and it was Rp30,000 (RM11) most well-spent.

Ku De Ta was definitely one of the highlights of our trip. Ambiance was lovely, beautiful and relaxing. We managed to get a corner seat overlooking the beach/ horizon. Clouds marred the sunset, but it was still rather awesome. At least it didn’t rain. Next time you are in Bali, you should really go to Ku De Ta — 4pm onwards then sit back and relax with beer and food.

Ku De Ta in Seminyak, Bali - Suanie Ku De Ta in Seminyak, Bali - setting sun 03

Prices are slightly above mid-range but that’s to be expected. A small bottle of Bintang costs Rp22,000 (RM7.xx), cocktails and spirits are more expensive. We ordered a Porkys pizza (Rp95,000 = RM32.50) and grilled pork ribs (Rp90,000 = RM31) to share, and knocked back a few beers between us. The Porkys pizza was the MOST DELICIOUS PIZZA I’D EVER HAD ZOMG! Words can’t begin to describe how awesome the pizza was, so you’ll have to find it out yourself. Ribs was juicy, tender and succulent, om nom nom nom nom.

Ku De Ta in Seminyak, Bali - Fireangel with pizza Ku De Ta in Seminyak, Bali - pork ribs

Ku De Ta was truly an incredible experience. I want to cry thinking about it because I want to go back!!! Two girls next to us were from California: one was staying a month and the other was already in Bali for 2 months. Bestnyer boleh berholiday lama-lama.

Ku De Ta in Seminyak, Bali - life is wonderful 01 Ku De Ta in Seminyak, Bali - life is wonderful 02

We stayed until 7+ pm, then decided to head back to our hotel. After all we had to wake up (damn) early the following morning for our mountain trekking adventure. Walked barefooted along the beach from Seminyak to Legian, very lovely. At Legian we decided (more me than FA) that we were too tired to walk back to Kuta, so we walked towards the promenade (where we’d began our mid-noon walk from Legian to Kuta beach). Got two motorcyclists to take us back to our hotel for Rp30,000 (RM11). Was quite worth it because the ride was fun as they went rather fast, into small lanes, endangering tourists and animals alike.

*Complete Flickr set of Bali, May 2009 here, including photos not published on blog.

The Great Bali Escape: Masa Inn, Kuta

I planned for our Bali trip a week before departure. That’s how the best decisions are made 😉

After scouring the Internet for hotel recommendations, I finally settled on Masa Inn. The reviews were mostly positive and rates seemed reasonable.

Due to room non-availability, we got a twin room (Rp300K, approx RM103) for the first 2 nights, and a triple room (Rp330K, approx RM113) for the next 2 nights. Note that these are reasonable prices (to me) in the year 2009.

Masa Inn, Kuta in Bali - twin room 01 Masa Inn, Kuta in Bali - triple room 01
Twin room and triple room at the Masa Inn

Entrance to the hotel and the reception area seemed shady. Doesn’t give much hope to what the rest of the place looks like, especially when you just passed by La Walon with their nice-looking exterior. Looks, as they say, can be deceiving. After going through the reception area and you’d be WTF-ed (in a pleasant way).

There are two courtyards, each with their own pool. For the first 2 nights, we stayed at the inner courtyard facing a bigger swimming pool located in the middle ground. A bit like chalets facing the pool. I didn’t take photos of this, go look up photos on Trip Advisor if you want. I woke up the second morning, took a peek out the window and saw this half-naked dude sitting at the pool deck chair reading a book and looking every bit like a Greek Adonis. Didn’t take photos but FA can vouch for it. What a great way to start my day, heh.

Masa Inn, Kuta in Bali - garden
Well-maintained garden leading to the second courtyard

For the last 2 nights, we switched to the triple room located at the first courtyard, quite near to the reception area. I really recommend that you spend the extra Rp30,000 because the additional space is worth it. It’s also cheaper if you opt for rooms on the 2nd or 3rd floors, but I’m glad we weren’t given those, don’t think we could have tahan-ed.

The showers work though the taps are a bit worn, the bathroom floor is a tad slippery, no problems with the toilet flush. Water tastes salty for some reasons (e.g. Kuta being next to the sea 😛 ). The hotel provides towels but not shampoo, soap etc.

Staff was friendly, courteous, helpful and nice. My only complain was that it could get a tad noisy because everything is made of wood. So if you are a light sleeper and your neighbour opens his door, be prepared to wake up with a slight jolt. Or if some guests gather at the balcony and chit-chat. Shouldn’t be much of a problem though; hopefully you’d be too tired to give a damn when you return to your room.

Masa Inn, Kuta in Bali - first pool 02 Masa Inn, Kuta in Bali - first pool 01
Left: 1st pool facing garden; Right: 1st pool facing wall next to reception

Exit Masa Inn, turn left, walk a bit and you’ll reach Jalan Pantai Kuta which is next to the beach, where you’ll find Hard Rock Hotel + Cafe, Mercure Hotel and McDonalds. Also touters of all kinds. Exit Masa Inn, turn left, walk a bit more and you’ll reach Legian Street — turn left and you’ll be heading off to the pubs and clubs. There are a few nice restaurants and pubs along Poppies Lane 1, not far from the hotel. Also very nearby: 24-hour convenience shops, Internet cafes, massage places, stalls selling clothes and souvenirs etc. You could choose not to leave Poppies Lane 1 if you wished to, heh.

By the way you wouldn’t hear any of this commotion on the streets if your room’s located in the second courtyard. First courtyard, maybe a little but not enough to bitch about.

Masa Inn, Kuta in Bali - toasted sandwich breakfast Masa Inn, Kuta in Bali - breakfast of jaffles
Ohai REAL bacon, om nom nom nom nom

The hotel rates include breakfast, available from 8 till 11 a.m. It’s a small menu with 5 options. Of course I took the bacon ones. Oh by the way they sell a big bottle of Bintang for Rp18,000 (RM6.20). Cheapest price in Kuta (that I saw anyway).

I’d definitely stay at the Masa Inn again. Nice, beautiful, unexpected, warm feel about it, good price, lovely to return to after a long and exhausting day exploring Bali. Walk-in prices are the same as their Internet rates. I felt very good about it after our tour guide told me later that it was a cheap price, and he only saw the first courtyard. I’d recommend that you secure your booking early (at least a week or two, more if during peak season) if you want to stay there. We saw lots of people walking in trying to get rooms only to be disappointed.

Darn it, now I REALLY feel like going back 🙁

*Complete Flickr set of Bali, May 2009 here, including photos not published on blog.

the great bali escape: may ’09: day one: departure, arrival, blasted taxi driver

So Fireangel and I went to Bali and back. We purchased the tickets in August 2008 during one of those Air Asia free tickets thing. It cost RM566 including RM36 optional GoInsure (which wasn’t optional for us because for some reason, the optional box/button did not appear in Firefox). When I was at a dinner hosted by Heineken last week, I spoke with one of the guys who was there. He bought 2 tickets to Bali earlier this year and it cost him half our price. So you can imagine my geramness…

Oh well. Our flight was at 7pm, we reached LCCT Sepang in good time, checked in and had a quick bite at Old Town.

Before Bali - Fireangel and Suanie at LCCT Sepang
Check out my awesome Threadless t-shirt!

The plane was on-time and we arrived in Denpasar 20 mins early, about 9.40 pm. Filled out an arrival card. Upon entering the terminal, we had to fill out a health card. Lots of people wearing face masks. Retrieved my luggage, wanted to exit the terminal but got stopped by an official wanting some other card. Huh, we don’t have. Go back, he said. Har?? Oh turns out we had to fill out yet another card -_-”

Lots of touters at the airport. We had to go to our hostel in Poppies Lane I in Kuta. One wanted Rp80,000 (RM28), another wanted Rp70,000 (RM25.xx). We stood in line for the airport taxi, ended up paying Rp50,000 (RM17.xx). Taxi driver said something about stopping us somewhere and we had to walk because Poppies Lane I is small, only meant for motorbikes. We clarified this (as much as we could, not well-versed with the streets of Kuta) and had to agree, providing that he showed us where to walk. He stopped us at a corner of Jln. Pantai Kuta and Jln. Legian, pointed obscurely and left. Err, thanks.

Bali - Legian Street at night
Legian Street at night. Only when we arrived it was much darker and deserted.

Obviously we got lost. Asked a few Caucasians who were most helpful in providing directions to Poppies Lane I. They weren’t kidding about the lane part. The entrance to Poppies Lane I from Legian Street was this small pathway with no signboards nor indications that it was a walk-able lane. The opening of the pathway was dark and small, only for pedestrians and motorcycles. I took a couple of photos on our last day to indicate the lane:

Bali - Road to Poppies Lane 1 in Kuta Bali - Fireangel at the Road to Poppies Lane 1, Kuta

Was rather bewildering and a tad scared. The pathway opened up to a bigger lane of course, but the initial walk was a bit scary, especially in the middle of the night. Some beggars with children around. Had to ask more people if it really will lead us to our hostel. The next day we found out from our guide that the other part of Poppies Lane I could take in cars (single lane). So turns out, our airport taxi driver just couldn’t be bothered to drive slightly longer to go into the lane @#*()@*@#&

Anyway, we found our hostel. Was nice, more on this later. Checked in, dumped our stuff, freshened up, went to a pub along the same street (Kubuku) for nectar of the gods.

Bali - Fireangel and Suanie having a beer
Om nom nom nom

Rp20,000 (RM6.90) for a big bottle of cold Bintang lager. Nice.

*Complete Flickr set of Bali, May 2009 here, including photos not published on blog.