the great penang getaway: august ’09: day two

We woke up at 9 something in the morning, started packing our stuff then checked out of Hutton Lodge. Left our bags with the friendly receptionist then ventured out for noms. I’d love to say that we wanted to eat everything Penang has to offer and our food itinerary is jam-packed with different places to go to. Unfortunately that was not the case and I only had Lorong Selamat’s char kuey teow on my mind. Shirley was more than accomodating, so we set out to walk to Lorong Selamat.

As we both were so brilliant that we didn’t have/ bring a printed-out map (no matter, I can’t read one anyway),we relied on my Nokia Maps on my N82. Of course it works, unfortunately I didn’t understand how it works. Took a couple of wrong turns, and I spotted a blue wall with a stall selling roti canai next to a mosque. I turned to Shirley and said, “Eh I think this is famous lah. Supposed to be good. I saw a photo of it on someone’s blog.”

Penang Aug 09 - 35 Roti Canai Transfer Road Penang Aug 09 - 36 Roti Canai Transfer Road

Shirley said to give it a try, so we got a place and sat down. Got ourselves a roti kosong each with curry chicken, a teh tarik and a set of roti bakar. The roti bakar came with half-boiled eggs on top. It was the first time I’d seen it served this way, though Horng later told me that it’s common in Penang.

Penang Aug 09 - 37 Transfer Road roti canai, chicken curry, teh tarik Penang Aug 09 - 38  Transfer Road roti bakar with half-boiled eggs

The roti canai was not bad lah. The difference was the curry chicken, very tasty! I don’t remember how much we paid for our breakfast but it wasn’t expensive. I asked a guy sitting at the next table for the name of the stall. He said, it’s just known as kedai roti canai along Transfer Road, and everybody should know it. GPS coordinates: 5.4201, 100.3302.

We walked towards the wrong end of Transfer Road to get to Lorong Selamat. Finally asked a couple of people for directions. Everyone was very surprised that we were going to WALK anywhere. “Wah, very far you know!!” was the common expression whenever we ask for directions. True, I would not walk in KL/ PJ/ Batu Pahat, but it’s normal to walk when you are a tourist. When you come to think of it, the locations are not very far away. Penang is so small what! It’s the heat and humidity that’s killing.

Anyway we got our directions, walked towards the correct end of Transfer Road, got on Burmah Road and walked all the way to Lorong Selamat for…

Penang Aug 09 - 39 Lorong Selamat Char Kuey Teow

Hooray! I got a normal order this time, instead of the extra-spicy I ate yesterday. Could really taste the charcoal fumes, which made it more delicious! 😉 The people working at the shop recognised us, heh. As it was somewhat early and there were few customers, Shirley decided to try to converse with the auntie cooking the char kuey teow. As she passed by our table…

“Auntie, ni de kuo tiao hen hao chi!” (Auntie, your kuey teow is delicious!)
“Hao chi ar? Hmmm.” (Delicious? *Acknowledgement* Hmm.)

So brave, hahah.

On the way back to Hutton Lodge, I couldn’t take the heat any more and bought an umbrella at 7-11. When we reached Hutton Lodge, there was a taxi at the courtyard. We asked if he could help get us a taxi to Parkroyal at Batu Ferringhi. Sure, for RM30! Well, taxis in Penang are not cheap, so suck it up lah. About 5 minutes later, his friend reached Hutton Lodge and off we went to our second accommodation.

Penang Aug 09 - 41 Shirley with welcome drink at Parkroyal Penang Aug 09 - 42 Suanie with welcome drink at Parkroyal

Parkroyal Penang! First time I was there was with Jaime and Janice, and it was cost-free 😉 . I’d wanted to return ever since, unfortunately neither me nor anything I own is made of gold. Since this trip was partly sponsored by MAS, I decided to take the plunge and book a grand deluxe sea-facing room at Parkroyal for one night. Also we were lucky to be someone’s corporate guests, hence we had a good corporate rate!

We got to the hotel earlier than the check-in time, at about 1.40 p.m. Our room was not ready and the receptionist asked if we would like a deluxe sea-facing room instead for a lower price. I thought about it for 3 seconds, then said no, it’s okay we can wait. I already waited a few years to stay there again, I think I can wait a few minutes more 😉

So we walked around the hotel for a bit then plonked our arses down at the lounge. A waiter came to us with welcome drinks. Decided to check out the St Gregory Spa, then the receptionist called the spa to let us know that our room was ready. As we received our room key, the receptionist apologised for the wait (which was not their fault, we arrived early) and nonchalantly added, “By the way, we upgraded you to a suite.”

Penang Aug 09 - 43 Parkroyal Ocean Palm suite living room Penang Aug 09 - 44 Parkroyal Ocean Palm suite bed

Holey mada of all… WE GOT LUCKY OR WHAT?!? 😀 Parkroyal’s Ocean Palm suite has a separate lounge area, a king-size bed, two LCD TVs, bla bla bla, go read the details here. Two balconies, attached to a private garden with sun deck chairs for the suites and deluxe rooms. RM600 (after corporate rate and upgraded to suite), awesome or not??

Penang Aug 09 - 49 Parkroyal suite, garden Penang Aug 09 - 51 Parkroyal suite, garden

As guests at the hotel, we were entitled to a discount at the attached St Gregory spa. Shirley made an appointment for the two of us. After unpacking for a bit, we decided to head to the pool for a quick dip before our (expensive) massages. Of course always got time for a quick beer and ice-cream!

Penang Aug 09 - 54 Suanie with beer by the beach Penang Aug 09 - 55 Shirley with ice-cream by the beach

We got a Balinese full body massage which was packaged with a facial, RM250 each. Thanks Shirley! 😛 The masseurs were very good though it got rather painful at times because my body is quite tensed up. So relaxing that we fell asleep for a bit. Woke up when cold stuff was splattered on our faces for the facial. For the final touch, they served us very nice ginger tea. I like! No wonder they are so expensive 😛

Then we walked back to the beach just to take in the evening sun (though there was no sun) and look see people for a bit.

Penang Aug 09 - 58 Batu Feringghi beach Penang Aug 09 - 60 Horse at the beach

Back at our room, Shirley saw that the staff had laid out a fruit platter for us. After a quick shower, we decided to chill out at the balcony with the fruits, some tea and coffee and bak hu from yesterday. This is the life, I tell ya.

Penang Aug 09 - 63 Bliss at Parkroyal

Decided to go back to Georgetown for dinner. Called up Bryan for strategies on locations and he suggested that we go to New Lane before anywhere else, as the hawker stalls may not be open till late. Off we went to New Lane, GPS coordinates: 5.415, 100.3271.

What’s the #1 food attraction at New Lane? Pig’s intestine porridge, of course!

Penang Aug 09 - 64 New Lane food stalls

Sorry, tidak ditanggung halal. We also got an order of oh-chien (fried egg + starch + oysters) and it was yummy. By the way I would like to state that we ordered one bowl of porridge to be shared — stomachs are not THAT bottomless pits ok. But yes, you must try the pig’s intestines porridge if you are at New Lane, if you haven’t already. There’s only one stall displaying all the innards, can’t miss it.

We asked the customers sitting nearby for directions to Chulia Street. They were aghast that we were planning to walk all the way there from New Lane. Like I said, Penang folks don’t walk one mah 😛 But they gave us good directions and off we went searching for Chulia Street. It was quite a bit to walk but not bad lah. Got lost a couple of times, asked more people for directions, passed by a mosque with banners demanding for Jeff Ooi’s resignation. Interesting…

Anyway there’s a good reason why we wanted to go to Chulia Street, and that’s…

Penang Aug 09 - 68 Chulia Street wantan mee Penang Aug 09 - 70 Kapitan's claypot nasi beryani

Wantan mee! Still delicious as ever, the noodles were springy and had bits of lard. The auntie at the stall had a lot of noodles for sale and it was half gone by the time we finished our bowl of wantan mee. Not bad eh? Except that the dining environment is not altogether appealing, but that’s Malaysian hawker places for you. I saw a damn cute Fluffy by the drain, asked Shirley to see but she refused 😛 GPS coordinates: 5.4182, 100.3365.

Next stop: Kapitan’s at Chulia Street.

By this point, we were a bit stuffed. But Kapitan’s was nearby and it would be a waste to skip their awesomely delicious claypot beryani! Actually I ordered a tandoori chicken on the side, but I think they didn’t hear the order or they sengaja ignored me. It’s okay, I think I was being too ambitious and greedy at that time, heh. GPS coordinates: 5.4162, 100.3386.

Chilled out for a while before hailing a taxi to G Hotel to catch Hot Chick. She was meeting some friends, asked us to join but we were too tired and decided to go back to our hotel. Before getting another cab, we stopped by at Gurney Drive food stalls to buy…

Penang Aug 09 - 71 Sotong Bakar stall at Gurney Drive Penang Aug 09 - 72 Sotong Bakar stall at Gurney Drive

Sotong bakar! Or grilled cuttlefish for those who don’t understand half of what I’ve been typing. Jaime introduced it to me years ago and since then, I’ve never failed to revisit the stall for delicious sotong bakar whenever I’m in Penang. The dark prawn paste just makes it better!

Got back to the hotel (another expensive taxi ride, but what to do), chilled out in front of the TV with our sotong bakar and assorted snacks with a B-grade movie on telly. Nice.

Third day: Cititel and Peter’s wedding dinner. More photos at my Flickr set for Penang, August 2009 here.

*Note: This trip was partly sponsored by Malaysia Airlines. Go check out the best fares at www.malaysiaairlines.com

the great penang getaway: august ’08: day one

About a month ago, my dear Pinky was in town for a week for a short holiday before she begins work at a new company. She suggested that we go to Penang, as she’d never been there before. Obviously the main reason she wanted to go there was because she’d heard that they have really great food up North. You can take the Singaporean out of Singapore… 😛

I took a couple of days off work so I could go to Penang with Pinky. We took the Aeroline coach which departs from Corus Hotel at 8.30 a.m. (the ones at BU depart at 10.30 a.m.). While waiting to board, I looked up the sky and felt so happy when I saw this:

Penang Aug 08 - 01 Blue KL sky
Morning sky

Blue skies and nice fluffy clouds do weird things to me.

The journey was quite nice, as my sister had kindly loaned me her neck pillow. We reached Penang on time, and I made a call to HotPenangChick (HPC). She is this really awesome Penangite who reads my blog sometimes. After I blogged about feeling cheated by certain vouchers, she contacted me and asked if I needed help to get a decent hotel room in Penang at a decent price. She’d also offered to take us around in Penang for food and what-not. In short, HPC was a major, major reason why Pinky and I had such a fantastic time in Penang. In case I forget to write it down later (though I don’t think I will), thank you so much HPC. We really, really appreciate everything and more that you’ve done 😀

So HPC picked us up at the bus station and took us to Lorong Selamat for lunch. She, like every other Penangite I’ve encountered dislikes the tourist-famous Lorong Selamat char kuey teow, due to the haughtiness of the proprietress. Turns out that the tourist-famous Lorong Selamat char kuey teow is no longer where it used to be — the proprietress now has her own corner shop just selling char kuey teow. We wanted to taste other food as well, so we opted for the shop where the tourist-famous char kuey teow used to be. We had ais kacang and some lobak, Pinky had prawn mee and we both ordered a plate of char kuey teow each (another dude was selling it). I ordered mine with extra ingredients — check out what arrived on my plate:

Penang Aug 08 - 05 Suanie eating a gigantic prawn
z0mg the biggest prawns I’d ever seen!

After lunch, HPC took us to our hotel at the Hydro Majestic. We got the deluxe room (with breakfast) for RM 270 a night, quite decent. When we arrived to check-in, we got quite a shock because there were police trucks, cars and bikes all over the parking area. Later we found out that there was a police function/ training thingy at the hotel. Well, at least we’d feel safe that night… 😛

For dinner, we went to Gurney Drive and had assam laksa. It was bleurgh. I remembered a grilled cuttlefish stall at Gurney Drive which tasted fantastic when Jaime introduced it to me a few years ago. The stall is still there and we bought our fill.

Penang Aug 08 - 11 sotong bakar, Gurney Drive
Scrumptious sotong bakar/ grilled cuttlefish

We walked to Gurney Plaza and shared a bowl of beef noodles at a Taiwanese beef noodle shop, as recommended by HPC. Not bad. I can’t remember the name of the restaurant now though. Maybe later.

After loitering about at Gurney Plaza (including getting lots of stuff from Cold Storage and chilling out at Starbucks), HPC and her boyfriend took us to Restaurant Kapitan at Chulia Street. HPC claimed that they serve the best tandoori chicken ever, and ordered one to share along with a garlic cheese naan. Her boyfriend got a claypot briyani; we had a taste of it and it was absolutely delicious! I know I always claim that there’s no better briyani than Mat Shah’s in Batu Pahat; guess I have to revoke that one. But it’s different lah, as Mat Shah’s briyani is more Malay kampung type, and Kapitan’s claypot briyani is… uhm, more Indian, I suppose. Both are awesome and I wish I could have either one just about now.

Then came the garlic cheese naan and tandoori chicken…

Penang Aug 08 - 13 cheese naan and tandoori, Kapitan, Chulia Street
Hands down the BEST tandoori chicken I’ve ever had

OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG. OMG.

(That should be indication enough on how out-of-this-world the naan and tandoori were)

After supper, HPC suggested that we check out Momo, a popular club along Upper Penang Road. She parked her car at Cititel so we walked along a road dotted with eateries and pubs. Then out of nowhere, I heard someone yelled out my name. I looked around and saw Patrick! Hah! Of all places!!! Turns out that it was his last couple of days in Penang; he had been there for some time now to shoot for a movie, The Funeral Party.

Penang Aug 08 - 15 Pinky, Suanie, Hot Penang Babe at Momo
Pinky, Suanie and HPC at Momo

After a couple of hours at Momo, we decided to call it a night. Lots of activities planned for day two!

*Click here to view the entire Flickr set for ‘Penang, August 2008’, which includes photos not published here.