Sapa: Cat Cat Village

Long for a Sapa trekking adventure but not quite sure if you are up for it?

I know what you need. To gently ease into the experience, get a soft introduction to Sapa trails, take the calculated step into a well-worn path.

You need Cat Cat Village.

Sapa, Cat Cat Village - entrance

Signs are aplenty leading to Cat Cat Village, a designated tourist spot not far from Sapa town. It is a proper home to some families of the Hmong minority, where you could get a glimpse of their daily lives, though heavily marked with tourism activities, of course.

You need to pay an entrance fee of about US$2 or US$3 before entering the village. I was told that you need to always have your ticket in place, for you may be stopped at random spots by inspectors who may demand a look at your ticket.

Sapa, Cat Cat Village - path

Going around Cat Cat Village takes about 2 to 3 hours. For most parts, the stone path is well maintained, just watch your step during rainy weather. There are some spectacular views to behold, souvenirs to be bought (though a lot of them are mass made and imported from China), snacks to be had.

Sapa, Cat Cat Village - view

Sapa, Cat Cat Village - rice fields

Sapa, Cat Cat Village - pigs

Sapa, Cat Cat Village - souvenir shops

Sapa, Cat Cat Village - toddlers

Sapa, Cat Cat Village - toddlers in shop

Sapa, Cat Cat Village - cute toddlers

Sapa, Cat Cat Village - boys

Sapa, Cat Cat Village - grilling meats

Sapa, Cat Cat Village - grilling corn

Sapa, Cat Cat Village - grilled pigeon

Sapa, Cat Cat Village - waterfall

Good easy way to spend a few hours before heading to Mt. Fansipan.

Next: Fansipan via the cable car.

Vietnam: Sapa

Sapa, is a frontier township and capital of Sa Pa District in Lào Cai Province in north-west Vietnam. It is one of the main market towns in the area, where several ethnic minority groups such as Hmong, Dao (Yao), Giáy, Pho Lu, and Tay live. [From Wikipedia]

We arrived in Sapa in late September, which I think is one of the best times to visit the valley. The air was cool, chilly sometimes, and walking around was a breeze. The mountains majestic and gorgeous, when not covered in fog. The rice terraces were golden and glorious, ripe for harvesting.

Getting to Sapa was half the fun. Here’s an introduction to the other half.

We stayed at Bamboo Hotel for US$50 a room. The best part of our stay was during breakfast, where we ate with this view in sight.

Sapa, Vietnam - Fansipan mountain
Overlooking the staggeringly beautiful Hoang Lien mountains

The town itself is a typical tourist joint, with plenty of food, hotels, massage parlours, transport and equipment rental etc. Forgot your trekking gear? Not to worry, you can get what you need from one of the many shops around, who most likely get their source of goods from the single one or two main suppliers.

The only thing I’d recommend that you bring from home, is a pair of very good hiking shoes. The cheap-and-bin types that you get from Sapa will leave you with black-and-gone toenails, and blisters that make you weep at night #truestory

Sapa, Vietnam - town

Sapa, Vietnam - shops

It rained the morning we arrived, so we got some breakfast in a cosy cafe while taking in the street sights.

Sapa, Vietnam - in the rain
Flourishing tourist business for Sapa’s hill tribe ethnic minorities

There are 54 ethnic groups in Vietnam. The Hmong tribe seems to be the most dominant in Sapa, or at least they are more inclined to come out to town and offer their tourist guide services. Don’t be surprised to find yourself accosted by one, two, or a few tribe women who chat you up with “What your name? Where you from?” Some speak better English than the others, a few may grin and attempt to hold your hand as a kind of agreement that they would be your guide in Sapa.

For a fee, of course. I ended up paying US$25 for mine, though I gladly did for she was strong, sturdy and loyally saw me all the way through my painful trekking journey.

Here again is my advice to all Sapa would-be trekkers: make sure that your hiking/trekking shoes are in good order, and would not break even before you use them.

Sapa, Vietnam - tribe woman
Ignore the hustling, Sapa tribe women are hardworking and resilient

Sapa town is relatively easy to get around. We walked down a road and found a small morning market with vendors selling vegetables, fish, meat, the likes.

Sapa, Vietnam - vegetable on display
So green, I wanted to roll in them!

This one seemed popular. Fresh grubs, anyone?

Sapa, Vietnam - worms

Sapa, Vietnam - fresh worms

Grilling a pig in the middle of the street, why not.

Sapa, Vietnam - pig grilling

I don’t know what this lady was making, but she was popular.

Sapa, Vietnam - street food

The heart of Sapa town is marked by the Sapa Church, also known as the Holy Rosary Church. It was built by the French in the early 20th century using stone, and remains an important landmark in town.

Sapa, Vietnam - church in town

A large courtyard in front of the church seemed pretty popular with both locals and tourist, such as Exhibit A below.

Sapa, Vietnam - town centre

Next: Cat Cat Village and Fansipan.

Hanoi: Overnight sleeper train to Lao Cai and Sapa

Sapa, a regularly quiet mountain town is famed for three things: breathtakingly beautiful terraced rice fields, Fansipan which is the highest peak in Vietnam, and being home to highland ethnic minorities.

It is 334 km from Hanoi, accessible via rail or road. Vietnam Railways runs day and overnight trains to Lao Cai town (2km from the China border!), from which you would take an hour’s ride on a bus or private car to Sapa town.

There was no question that I would go for the sleeper train. Yes it would be a rickety ride, don’t kid yourself about a smooth overnight journey. Yes it would take 8 long hours, where the day bus would take only 5. You cannot reason with someone who cannot be reasoned with, especially when it comes to unrealistic ideas about long, romantic, great railway journeys.

The question now is, which train? There seems to be plenty of options, with Old World names such as Orient Express, Fanxipan Express, Victoria Express, Sapaly Express, Livitran Express etc that quite feed the imagination. To make it more confusing, the trains range from US$60 to US$150.

I asked my Vietnamese friend, Le for advice. She did one better – she helped to buy our train tickets for us, yay!

Hanoi Sapa train - ticket
You need a translator for this one

Wait… US$35 return train tickets each? On a no-fancy-name train? Are you really sure it’s the right purchase? Should I be worried?

“It’s all the same train!” Le scoffed. “Private companies just decorate some cabins with lamps and curtains, then sell expensive tickets for them.”

“You will be fine in the normal cabin,” she declared.

She was right, of course.

In fact, the most difficult part of journey was being conned out of US$2 by a tout waiting at the Hanoi train station. A local chap snatched my paper ticket, quickly glanced through it and beckoned for us to follow him. He was rather fast and I couldn’t stop him in time. He then demanded money for ‘leading us to the right platform’.

Turns out, this is a common scam, an easy way for these chaps to make a quick buck. I paid up, though I saw a couple of tourists loudly scolding their ‘guide’, making a scene and refusing to pay the tout. Good on them!

Hanoi Sapa train - train station
Hanoi train station

Hanoi Sapa train - rail station
Got to know where you’re going

The standard cabin comes with 4 berths. Decent mattress and pillow, and a thick blanket to counter the cold freezing air conditioner. Space seems limited, avoid over packing for your trip to the mountains.

If you are overweight or have injured your ankle/leg in any way, you may find the Upper Berths challenging to get to.

Hanoi Sapa train - standard cabin
The standard 4-bed cabin

Hanoi Sapa train - upper berth
People who are not overweight. Thanks for taking the Upper Berths.

We went through the town and peeked into strangers’houses, for the train tracks go between private housing. I suppose the residents must be pretty used to this.

The Chuong Dong bridge was also beautifully lit up at night.

Hanoi Sapa train - view of bridge

Someone came around to sell snacks and drinks. We were quite tired and dozed off very quickly. If you need real rest, you might want to take a (prescribed) relaxant. This train moooovveess… if you are a light sleeper, you are going to spend the next 8 hours counting a lot of sheep.

Hanoi Sapa train - snacks
Vendor selling snacks

Not ready to wake up? Not to worry, the radio will play a Vietnamese song to ‘gently’ awaken you, to ensure that you are prepared to leave the train as soon as it arrives at Lao Cai. Same goes for the return trip to Hanoi. Not sure if they play it in the private tourist cabins.

Hanoi Sapa train - sleeper train

As we walked to the main Lao Cai station to catch our one-hour ride into Sapa town, we saw the nicely decorated private cabins. Some had beautiful lamps, some had lovely curtains, a few had paintings hanging on the wall. Not bad, if that is what your idea of a train journey is.

Hanoi Sapa train - luxury cabins
Walking past luxury cabins

Don’t worry if you did not make prior arrangements for transport from Lao Cai to Sapa. Lao Cai is a transit town, and there would be many people wanting to take you to Sapa.

Hanoi Sapa train - station at dawn
Our return trip to Hanoi, arrived in the morning

Next: Sapa.

Hanoi: Mon Hue and eating near the train station

We arrived in Hanoi and headed for my ex-colleague, Le’s pad. She was not in town, but had instructed her neighbour to feed us. That was how we ended up at Mon Hue, a restaurant chain that serves delicious Vietnamese food.

What? Good Vietnamese food that isn’t served at a rickety stall by the road side? It wasn’t just because we were hungry (feed us feed us!) but damn, we gobbled down the lot and then some.

Hanoi - Vietnam Pepsi
This Pepsi has an identity

Hanoi - Mon Hue food
Cha Hue (Hue Pork Ham), Banh Ram It (Fried & Steamed Cakes with Shrimp & Pork), Hen Tron Xuc Banh Da (Baby Clams), Nem Nuong Cuon Banh Trang (Grilled Ground Pork)

Hanoi - Mon Hue starter
Mon Hue also serves Hue cuisine, traditionally reserved for royalty.

I fell in love with bánh bèo, small steamed rice cake with dried shrimp. Soft, delicate with a slight chewy texture, it goes well with a bit of dipping sauce, which is usually fish sauce.

Hanoi - Mon Hue banh beo

If you’ve been to Pho Viet in Atria or Empire, you’d have seen bánh bèo on the menu. Well, Pho Viet serves gigantic size bánh bèo. This was the tiny, more manageable bánh bèo we had in Hanoi:

Hanoi - Mon Hue banh beo steamed rice pancake

Le graciously allowed us to keep some of our luggage at her place, so that we wouldn’t have to lug our big bags to Sapa. The overnight train to Sapa would leave at 10pm, so we freshened up and left for the station, with enough time to grab supper.

This stall was nearby the train station, and it served the most memorable dish I had in Hanoi.

Hanoi - street side food stalls

What is ‘bun ca ho tay’? I can’t find the exact translation, but we had noodles served in a clear sour broth with fried fish fillet and herbs, all for VND25K (RM4.70). In that cool rainy evening in Hanoi, the comforting soup hits all the right spots before a long journey to the mountainside.

Hanoi - bun cha ho tay

To think we had wanted to share, but it ended up being, “NO, GET YOUR OWN BUN CA HO TAY.”

Hanoi - road near train station

Hanoi - Train Station

We also drank really good coffee before going on the train. But this trip was last year, and I can’t find some of my photos anymore 🙁