the great bali escape: may ‘09: day three: to the peak of mount batur (part two)
Why two long posts on Mount Batur? ‘Cos my blog is my journal, this time next year I’ll be going through my archives and remember exactly what I did and how I felt, and I do have a lot to say. Plus I actually did something that I don’t normally do, of course I’d milk it as much as I can get away with.
Our guide, Wayan was most pleasant, spoke good English and was rather funny at times. He’d been doing this (i.e. mountain guide) for 10 years and for the record, he could go up to the peak of Mount Batur in 40 minutes. Coming down is a hop, a skip and a jump of 15 minutes. Ketut, the other guy carrying a backpack of drinks just grinned a lot, didn’t say much. We conversed mainly in Bahasa Malaysia to him.
It was really dark at 4 a.m. (duh). We used our torch lights to navigate through pebbles, rocks and uneven steps. Put on our jackets because of the early morning chill, but took them off after 15 minutes. Was too hot and sweaty, and we found it much easier to walk without them.
I can’t begin to describe how I felt at that time. We had to take a few quick rests because I found it increasingly difficult to walk uphill. You know, being FAT and UNFIT and all that. The reality of what we were doing came crashing down at me, and I kept wondering why the hell I signed up for this. FA was a trooper. She tried to encourage me and I am sorry for telling her to stop talking at that time. But true mah.. as much as I appreciated her encouragement, it really didn’t help; made me feel worse actually, heh. Sorry mwah.
Splendid view halfway up to the peak. Of course they were taken when it was not so dark
It was actually very beautiful, even in the dark. The stars were bright and aplenty, I thought I saw The Archer but I just googled and found out that it wasn’t. So I can’t tell you what constellations they are, except that they were lovely to see. I would have taken in more of the surrounding view except that at that time, I was too exhausted to care.
After an hour, I sat down and thought I could not move anymore. Wayan suggested that Ketut takes FA up (because she is way fitter than I am in every sense of the word) and he’d wait with me. So that was done and off FA went to the peak with Ketut. Wayan and I sat a while longer before we continued on our journey.
A note on Wayan: the guides were randomly assigned to different groups and I was really glad that we got Wayan. Might even go offer incense to ze gods later as a note of thanks. I honestly don’t think I would have made it to the peak without him. Sounds dramatic, right? Well it’s how I truly feel. He was very patient, very cool and chillax. His words of encouragement were soothing, calming and made a lot of sense. I suppose being an experienced guide, he’d seen this a thousand times and knows exactly what buttons to push. I appreciate and am damn grateful for every bit of his experience. He also helped carry my backpack which made it easier for me to walk.
It took us another hour to reach the peak (FA did it in 1.5 hours) and the path was gruelling, backbreaking, arduous (for me). At different points in time, I fretted that we would not be able to catch the sunrise because I am a random worrier like that. He just smiled and said to relax, take in your surroundings, it will be there, you’ll see the sunrise etc. When I looked up to see the path’s 60 degree angle leading to the peak, I was most demotivated because I didn’t think I’d be able to haul myself up.
I wanted to quit every 5 minutes. Felt like sobbing which disgusted myself because in the real world, this is actually not very difficult. Wayan held my hand and let me take my time, going at my own pace. When I apologised and made lame excuses that I am not fit, I don’t do this all the time etc, he just kindly smiled and said, “It’s okay. It’s fine. Don’t think too much. Everyone has their own pace in Bali.” At that moment in time, his words struck me hard. I can’t explain why but they stuck in my mind and I felt a lot better after that.
I also kept thinking to myself that this too shall pass, that in 20 minutes time I’ll be at the top with FA, and when I get home I’d be able to blog about what I saw at the peak. This too shall pass, this too shall pass, toughen up bitch, this too shall pass.
It did, and here’s me at the peak!
What can I say? It was absolutely BEAUTIFUL at the peak. The views were magnificent, overlooking the black lava from the last eruption in 2000. Puffy cottony white clouds covered views of Lake Batur down below and unfortunately the rising sun. But that’s really okay. It was still a splendid sight to behold. Mount Abang and Mount Agung were resplendent in the horizon.
Like I said, the clouds marred the view of the rising sun. I bet a lot of people there were disappointed. It was still gorgeous to us! After a certain line, we could see the sun more clearly and it was beginning to get hot. Wayan got us our breakfast — sandwich of boiled bananas and 2 hard-boiled eggs (apparently boiled using the natural hot spring water) each. Non-aggressive monkeys everywhere hoping to get remnants of our breakfast.
We just sat there and chilled, chatted, took photos and videos. A lot of the tourists were beginning to leave after an hour or so at the peak. So fast one. Maybe they had tour schedules to keep. When FA walked around the place, maybe she was looking agitated or in a hurry or something because Wayan told her to ’santai’ (rest). After we were done with food, he took us down the slope (which I said in the video I’d never go because I’d fall over and die) to see the sulphur spots, cave and crater. By the time we got back to the cabin at the peak, we were among the last couple of groups around. Was nice to have the whole place to ourselves, just sit around, take in the view and chat.
After a long while, we decided that we should head back down else we’d end up being fried bloggers. It was slightly easier to go down than up, though your thighs will feel like shit the next day. At least it was daytime so we could see the pathway clearly.
It was really THAT steep. The top part of Mount Batur anyway.
Could hardly believe I was actually at the peak!
Well it was an incredible experience indeed. Three things I learnt from this adventure:
1) Never eat oily food before trekking up a mountain. You’ll feel it at your throat later.
2) Some sleep is better than no sleep.
3) Never refuse a hand when offered. Very important, this.
Said thanks and goodbye to Wayan and other guides. Yande who was waiting for us in his car (because he wore slippers) took us to Lake Batur (also known as Danau Batur) so we could see Mount Batur from another side. Next stop: babi guling in Ubud!
I made a video of our Mount Batur experience. 6.50 mins, I was not very cohesive, BUT WHAT THE HECK WEI I JUST WALKED UP A 1,717 METRE HIGH VOLCANO MOUNTAIN!! 
*Complete Flickr set of Mount Batur, Bali here.
Related Posts
- the great bali escape: may ‘09: day three: to the peak of mount batur (part one)
- the great bali escape: may ‘09: day three: ubud and the famous ibu oka babi guling
- some thoughts on a friday
- kemensah falls
- original bootcamp malaysia: reflections (part 01)
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I felt really terrible about leaving you behind the whole way up you know. I mean I knew you were in safe hands but in my mind I was torned between “Fuck man, we should be doing this TOGETHER + all the other friendship lines about going through shit together and fucking the sunrise” and “but we are climbing this damn thing for the sunrise, it needs to be photographed! I’m sure Suanie would’ve wanted this!”
But the cheebai clouds blocked most of it anyway. Oh well.
alaa.. don’t feel bad! i said it was really okay to go ahead hahaha and i truly meant it
well we met at the top also what! in the end.. took me some time but i was there yay! plus i don’t want to drag you down anyway 
the clouds were okay lah. we can’t be weather masters hah. at least it didn’t rain! be happy for things that didn’t happen
Actually, it’s better for FA to go on up – each should move at his/her best pace since it is comfort that is most important.
Heh.. my guide at Mount Kinabalu probably saved my life, I mean literally. I could have frozen to death up there if he hadn’t grabbed my arm and forced me to move! I think guides are all like that – silent, strong and reliable.
were we born with extra tear ducts? must ask mum why i tear so easily. wimp.
me. not u
they can’t understand MCH but we do FA.
couldn’t believe u did it. will there be a 2nd time? LMAO
the with u and the sunrise, the scene look awesome but u look dying very soon, hahahahhaha can’t help laughing Suanie. sorry
Sounds like enough exercise to last you for another year?
Suertes: heh i think we got v. lucky. i don’t suppose ALL guides are like that. the better and more experienced ones are!
LT: if i were you i’d cry all the time also. stress
horng: why not a second time horng!
only if i don’t expect it then i’d be able to do it heh. else i’d think too much and demotivated myself before it even begins. laugh all you want, but it was worth it 
ky: sounds like it
Yah honestly it’s better for FA to go ahead, it’s hard work walking slower than your natural pace just as much as walking faster.
Each to their own, fast or slow isn’t good or bad – just different.
So beautiful up there, even with the clouds.
Yeah got part 2 somemore :p Nice view at the peak of the mountain but I’m a lazy person that hates mountain climbing. :p
Nice and congrats for sticking with it!
I also went up there in 1997 and definitely wouldn’t want to go without a guide – in the dark I would have got totally lost.
I think they steam the banana and eggs in a bottle placed in front of a vent.
beautiful place man… I’d love to trek up this!
“Everyone has their own pace in Bali.” My guide told me something to this extent and its so true of Bali. I wished I was rich and can go there right now!
So want to go with me to Huangshan? ^_^
I hate youuuuuuuuu! I miss Bali.. it is still my fav place. And that guy said about everyone has their own pace in Bali… it is so true
They are very nice people and I just love the way they live their life… very zen.
wow the view was really picturesque! Congratulations for making it to the peak!
ST: looking back, i think so too. but must have the guide la else kantoi
kit kat: oh i’m also v. lazy one!
if i can do it, anyone else can!
julian: thankss! 1997 was before the eruption eh. must have looked different.
ahseng: do it! i think adrian might do it next time he’s there. you are rich, just that your standards now different hahhaha
AT: err look at your photos enough already lah
faiez: ala… i hate you too
all the europe photos argh!
eiling: thank youuuuu
hey suanie,
i loved the post as i’m a big fan of hiking wtf.. have been postponing to go bali for a while coz i thought it’s too commercialize but after reading this post i might give it a go afterall!
is bali safe enough to go alone? sucks that i dont have any friends who would do this with me. i want a guide like wayan, i wonder if i can choose him as my guide.. hmmm…
View is WTF damn NICE!
Yeah got part 2 somemore :p Nice view at the peak of the mountain but I’m a lazy person that hates mountain climbing. :p
sharon: heh thanks! i should think that bali is safe enough to go alone.. just that you wouldn’t have anyone to split the cost with, i.e. hostel/ food/ guide. you can contact wayan directly. he gave us his card, but i left it at home. will e-mail you tonight with his details
jimmy: it was! amazingness
pb: now that you’ve said it twice, you’ll have to do it
About the climb …congrats. I think the state of mind is very powerful. It can overcome all physical obstacles if you just be positive. Never give up and go at your own pace.